When searching for a suit, don’t expect a perfect fit off the peg, regardless of price it’s not tailor-made. A brief narrative on off the peg suits versus body shape variables.
Don’t be fooled by the scripted compliments given by sales staff, make your own judgement. Their persuasive nature will lead you to illusions. The correct fit will be evident as the jacket is pulled over your shoulders. And no excess gaping across the upper chest should be evident.
Remembering that height can be constant but proportions are variable, long legs short trunk or conversely long trunk short legs. The jacket tail length must be proportionate to you vertical dimensions.
The rule of thumb, is, the tail should sit on the crease of your bum. Sleeve length easy, on the crease on the inside of wrist. If too long or short, no worries they can be adjusted. Shoulders pads flush with biceps.
Determine the fit around the trunk, Buttoned, try getting a fist snugly in between the jacket and your belly, good fit. Choose the brand that suits your body shape, they’re all cut from different blocks.
Experiment, if you normally wear trousers at belly button height, then try wearing them lower on the hip, they may just look more proportionate to your shape, especially if your legs are very long and trunk short. You may save a few bucks on altering the length. It takes a bit of getting used to, but a change is always good.
The correct length: Just off the floor in stocking feet, or 4cm with shoes on.
Observe the seat, it should not be hanging out, if so, they’re too large, or not a suitable brand for your body shape; keep looking. Don’t mess with the jacket, it’s an engineered structure, size up and get it as close as possible, trousers are easy to let in, let out take up or down. If at all possible get two pairs, remembering the wear and tare comparative to the jacket.
Check to see if the trousers are lined to the knee, this adds to the comfort zone and will also increase their life span, by reducing friction. Importantly, ill fitting trousers will wear out very quickly.
Check the fit between the arm pit and hip, it should snug shapely in your waist and not hang straight down.
Choose your style, Anglo Saxons; the English cut, Germanic; Hugo Boss, Latin; Armani, Zegna. Just remember the first dark business suit originated in England the grandfather of all suits that followed. The best fabric? Wool, the best wool Australian Marino. If pinned striped and textured, compliment it with a shirt that bares resemblance and to pull the collection together a silk tie; create a focal point, don’t blend in with the back ground. Try and remember to combine, colour, pattern and texture.
There are a number of brands that have delivered consistent quality and style for decades; Paul Smith, Ted Baker, Hugo Boss, Simon Carter and Ben Sherman. More generic brands, but lesser known, Studio Italia, is the market choice for those seeking a good quality general purpose business suit. Classically cut they will fit most body shapes and sizes, unless of course you’re over portly. And generously come with two pairs of trousers.
Don’t forget a pair of cufflinks.
Purveyor of finely crafted silk ties, cufflinks, men’s jewellery, belts and wallets, by renowned British Designers here at http://www.patrickmcmurray.com
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